The Best Hydrating Skincare Ingredients For Colder Months—According To A Dermatologist – Essence
As the temperatures drop and the air gets colder, our skin often feels the change before we do. Dryness, tightness, and flakiness seem to creep in overnight, leaving us wondering how to keep our glow through the season. Winter weather—with its icy winds, low humidity, and relentless indoor heating—can be downright brutal on your skin. Without the right care, you might find your skin feeling rough, irritated, or just plain uncomfortable. But don’t worry; with the right ingredients and a little extra effort, you can keep your skin soft, hydrated, and healthy no matter how low the temps go.
To help us navigate the colder months with confidence, ESSENCE spoke with Dr. Naana Boakye, MD, MPH, Owner of Bergen Dermatology and Co-owner of Karité Shea Butter. She shared her go-to hydrating ingredients and the best ways to use them in your skincare routine, so you can face winter with your skin glowing.
Winter’s Best Hydrating Ingredients
“During colder months, focus on ingredients like glycerin, ceramides, urea, and good old petroleum jelly,” Dr. Boakye advises. Each of these ingredients brings unique benefits to the table. Urea, for example, does double duty by hydrating and gently exfoliating the skin, making it particularly effective for smoothing out rough patches. Meanwhile, petroleum jelly acts as an occlusive, creating a protective barrier that locks in moisture and shields the skin from harsh winter elements.
Ceramides are essential for strengthening the skin barrier, which can become compromised by cold air and indoor heating. Finally, glycerin, a humectant, draws water into the skin, ensuring it stays plump and hydrated. To maximize hydration, Dr. Boakye recommends adding a humidifier to your living space to replenish moisture in the air. “Your skin will thank you for it,” she notes.
Emerging Stars In Hydration
While staples like glycerin and petroleum jelly are reliable, newer ingredients are gaining attention. One standout is polyglutamic acid, a powerhouse that holds even more water than hyaluronic acid. This ingredient not only hydrates but also enhances the efficacy of other hydrating agents by creating a moisture-retentive film on the skin. “Think of it as the ultimate team player for your winter skincare routine,” says Dr. Boakye.
Urea, though not new, remains an unsung hero in winter skincare. Its ability to hydrate while gently exfoliating makes it a standout for combating dry, flaky patches. Dr. Boakye suggests combining urea-based products with petroleum jelly for overnight treatments. “When used together, they form an occlusive seal that locks in hydration and promotes smoother, softer skin by morning,” she explains. The versatility of urea also makes it ideal for both targeted care and full-body hydration, ensuring no area is left behind during the colder months.
Tailoring Hydration to Your Skin Type
Hydrating strategies can differ depending on your skin type. For those with dry or eczema-prone skin, Dr. Boakye recommends layering a urea cream with petroleum jelly for an effective overnight treatment. This combination helps to repair the skin barrier while delivering intense hydration, making it perfect for areas prone to cracking, like hands and feet.
Individuals with oily or combination skin don’t need to shy away from hydration either. “Lighter humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid are excellent for keeping oilier areas balanced without clogging pores,” says Dr. Boakye. That said, don’t overlook urea for specific rough patches like elbows or heels—it’s a game-changer even for oily skin types.
Sensitive skin requires a gentler approach, and Dr. Boakye advises opting for urea in lower concentrations to minimize irritation. Pairing it with a humidifier can further help by adding moisture to the air, reducing the need for heavy layers of product. “Sometimes, less is more when dealing with sensitive skin,” she adds, encouraging a focus on soothing hydration and environmental support.
