Roller sets, also known as wet sets, are a classic hairstyle at any Black salon. The process— shampoo, conditioner, mousse, rollers, and then an hour or two under the dryer— is well known for many Black women. While traditional roller sets aren’t as popular today as a silk press, a new version, called the dry set, is putting them back in the spotlight.
For years, we’ve adored roller sets for the voluminous, billowy style they deliver and their longevity. Unlike pin curls or other styles with hot tools, setting the hair in rollers under the dryer locks the look for days. The popularity of dry sets is increasing, and if Instagram and TikTok are any indication it’s clear the method will be sticking around. This begs the question of which version is better.
Below, senior stylist at Brooklyn’s H2Salon, Marq of Excellence, gets to the bottom of this viral trend.
What is a Dry Set?
“Dry roller set is a technique used on dry hair to add curls, waves, or body without using direct heat,” says Marq. While the rollers are most often used on completely dried hair, Marq says that slightly damp hair is just as common. After the hair has been dried and lightly curled, the rollers are placed in a traditional pattern. He explains that dry sets deliver long-lasting curls with volume, root lift, smoothness, bounce, and a defined finish. “Typically, the hair is set in rollers for a few hours to achieve a heat-free look,” he says. However, if you’re doing a dry set at home, he mentions that leaving them in overnight is another option.
Social media has fueled many hair trends, including the viral braided baldie and fluffy silk press, but the dry set is generating a different kind of buzz. Instead of being a completely new style, it’s a fresh take on a beloved classic that’s nostalgic and familiar. Marq believes that this is one of the main reasons the dry set has taken off on social media platforms like TikTok. “Many of our mothers and grandmothers used roller set techniques to maintain long, full, luscious hair. Today, women are mirroring these old-school methods to enhance the longevity of their style.
What are the benefits of a Dry Set?
The roller set pattern is the same between a wet and dry set. However, there are some advantages to using it on dry hair. According to Marq, the absence of direct heat on the hair goes a long way in maintaining its health and the longevity of the style. “Wet sets are usually performed with a setting lotion or gel, depending on the density of the hair, and then dried under a hood to achieve the style,” he adds.
On the contrary, dry sets don’t require as many heavy products, allowing you to achieve a lighter and fluffier look. Since the hair has been washed, conditioned, and dried with protecting products before blow-drying, additional products like mousse aren’t needed to get the look. After the rollers have been removed, adding a light oil will increase shine and help control frizz.
How To Do A Dry Set At Home
The first step to any set, wet or dry, will be a nourishing wash-day routine. Your hair and scalp should be thoroughly cleansed and conditioned before a leave-in product, such as a heat protectant or lightweight conditioner, is applied. Once you’ve blown your hair dry, it’s time to set the base for your style.
For a smoother look, you can also straighten your hair with a flat iron before adding the rollers. “Begin by sectioning the hair into one-inch slices, following the shape of your head or desired parting,” says Marq.
Next, wind each section around the roller with firm tension to ensure the hair stays in place. He notes that proper positioning of the rollers is essential to achieving root lift and volume. “Make sure the hair sits at the base of the roller and that it’s secure. If need be, use a roller set pin to keep the roller in place,” he says.
To maintain the look, he recommends dry rolling your hair nightly or using pin curls if it’s more comfortable. Of course, covering your hair with a silk scarf or bonnet will help keep the rollers in place while you sleep and ensure your style stays silky for days.
