ESScent Of The Week: Why MERIT’s ‘Retrospect’ Had Me Rethinking Everything I Knew About Musky Scents – Essence

Whenever a non-fragrance brand ventures into the category, I’m sure I’m not alone in getting a bit nervous. 

And after seeing many mixed reviews of MERIT Retrospect’s Extrait de Parfum on #PerfumeTok, I knew I had to get my nose on it to make a determination of my own.

Now, MERIT as a makeup brand? Love everything they stand for. Modern, clean ingredients — count me in. Now, MERIT as a fragrance? That’s a whole other ballgame.

Before I dive into my thoughts — a few caveats: I am not traditionally into skin/musky/”your skin, but better” scents. I like to get complimented on my fragrances when I go out, and simple and minimalist just doesn’t hit the same (sorry to all the Glossier You lovers out there, but also not my jam). So I knew I already would be fighting an uphill battle to turn this one from a like to a love. Give me a delicious gourmand or a juicy fruity floral moment any day. But sometimes the most beautiful discoveries happen when we step outside our comfort zones, and MERIT’s Retrospect is proof of exactly that.

Described as a “nuanced scent designed to evolve with you throughout the day,” at first spray, the top notes hit you with this bright, effervescent burst – imagine fresh, juicy pear meeting crisp bergamot, but elevated by aldehydes that add this sophisticated, almost champagne-like sparkle. It’s clean without being soapy, fresh without feeling generic. 

Within about 30 minutes, the heart notes start to reveal themselves, and this is where things get interesting. The jasmine and rose aren’t your grandmother’s florals – they’re soft, modern, almost translucent, with orris adding this elegant powdery quality that feels expensive. But it’s the unexpected touch of rosemary that really sets this apart, adding an herbaceous freshness that keeps the florals from becoming too precious. Then comes the dry down. The base notes of vanilla, musk, and moss create this incredibly addictive skin-like warmth that doesn’t overpower. The vanilla isn’t sweet or gourmand (or really even smells like vanilla in my opinion), instead, it’s creamy and sophisticated, while the moss adds this subtle earthiness that grounds everything. The result is this gorgeously intimate scent that feels like the best version of your own skin, but better.

And clearly, I’m not alone in my appreciation. MERIT sold one bottle every 30 seconds on launch day, which tells you everything you need to know about the demand for sophisticated, clean fragrances that don’t compromise on complexity or staying power.

Why I like it: Notice I said like, and not love (I told you it would be difficult!). While I appreciate its sophistication and the masterful way it evolves throughout the day, I’m still a gourmand girl at heart. That said, there’s something undeniably intriguing about how it adapts to your body chemistry. As someone who typically gravitates toward more pronounced scents, I find myself reaching for Retrospect on days when I want to add a touch of scent without making too much of a statement (think, on days when I’m catching a flight, going to the gym or going to a dentist appointment).

For the fragrance newcomers, this is a scent that won’t overwhelm you or your space. For the perfume connoisseurs among us, there’s enough sophistication and evolution here to keep you interested. And for someone like me, who typically reaches for more traditional fragrances, Retrospect has become the perfect everyday scent that feels both special and effortless.

Add to that, it’s a concentrated extrait de parfum with nearly 30% fragrance oil—double that of most perfumes—I can honestly say, Retrospect lasts all day with just one spray. 

Perfect pairings: For my fragrance adventurers who love to experiment, I’ve discovered some stunning layering combinations with Retrospect that are worth trying. Pair it with Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s 724 to amplify those aldehyde notes into something even more sophisticated and urban-chic. For a more sensual evening variation, I’ve found that layering it with By Rosie Jane’s Dulce instantly enhances the vanilla notes while adding a subtle hint of sweetness that’s absolutely divine. My unexpected favorite? Philosophy’s Falling in Love paired with Retrospect creates this incredibly romantic blend – the way Falling in Love’s vanilla-blackberry notes mingle with Retrospect’s sophisticated musk creates this gorgeously intimate skin scent that feels like a warm embrace. Want to lean into those fresh top notes? Try layering it with Jo Malone’s Pear & Freesia – the combination creates this gorgeous amplified pear moment that somehow still feels elegant rather than overly fruity. Just remember, when layering with Retrospect, less is more given the concentration of perfume oil.

The verdict? Sometimes the best discoveries come from challenging our preconceptions. MERIT’s Retrospect isn’t just another clean beauty brand trying their hand at fragrance – it’s a serious contender in the luxury perfume space that happens to be clean. And while TikTok might be divided, this editor is thoroughly impressed.

Available at meritbeauty.com for $92, Retrospect is making a strong case for bringing me into the category. This may be one of the first I had a strong affinity for, but hoping it won’t be the last!